Braids are fantastic protective hairstyle that can keep potentially embarrassing damaged hair out of sight, while growing healthier roots. This not to say they cannot be worn by black women with gorgeous hair, because they certainly can be. Braids are a hassle free hairstyle that can provide rest to any ethnic hair type. Somehow along the way this protective hairstyle got a bad reputation thanks to heavy handed stylist and black women that want to milk their braided-dos for every cent they’ve paid by keeping them longer than it is advisable. One of my favourite cosmetic companies has a motto that says ‘first do no harm’. In my opinion, this slogan should be adopted by all black women when it comes to ethnic hair care.

Gentle handling:

A hairstylist has no place giving anyone a face lift; it is not part of their job description. And considering what hairstylists did to the super model Naomi Campbell’s hair line, every black woman should be extra cautious when it comes to weaving and braiding of their hair. Severe tugging or pulling of hair should not be an acceptable hairstyling practice. Repeated severe pulling of hair roots can easily result in permanent hair loss enslaving you to wigs for the rest of your life. It is time for the black woman to take back her power from the hairstylist; no hairstyle is worth a destroyed hair line

Nourishment:

Continue to avoid mineral oil based moisturisers and braid sprays. Essential organic oils are still your hair’s best friend. These oils get easily absorbed to nourish and moisturise thirsty roots. This is not the case with mineral oils; they simply coat the hair and braids resulting into a dust attracting greasy mess. Good ethnic hair care products will help protect your hair and keep it nourished while braided.

Cleansing:

Before you even think to ask if I’ve lost my ever loving mind, remember the ethnic hair under the braids still needs moisture to thrive. This can be intimidating at first I admit, but it can and has to be done. This is how.

• Create about six chunky braids and tie the ends with elastic rubbers.
  

• Gently wash your hair with water that has your favourite shampoo diluted into it. Use the pads of your fingers to massage the exposed scalp between the braids. Thoroughly rinse and towel dry by squeezing and patting the braids. Do not rub. Rubbing might lead to frizzy natural hair sprouting out of the braids. Worst case scenario; it might loosen the braids from the roots.
• A spray-on conditioner is perfect for braids. The vital thing is to focus the spray bottle nozzle away from the scalp and roots. Wet heavy braids will slip down from sleek roots, so take care while conditioning.
• Rinse and squeeze out the excess water out from braids. Spray on your hair moisturiser, undo the braids and let them dry naturally.

Depending on how oily your scalp gets, washing the braids biweekly should be sufficient. An added benefit to cleaning braided hairstyles besides having fresh smelling hair and funk free scalp is that you will not be able to keep your braids longer than it’s good for healthy ethnic hair. Two months are ideal, three being the stretch. Having your natural hair in braids for too long may lead to the matting of the ethnic hair to the synthetic hair of the braids. This will break your natural hair when the braids have to come off. Keep the duration of your braids, clean and short for the greater good of your natural locks. Your natural hair will thank you for doing so.

Article by Meka Mpofu